Bonnie and Kim Go to Yosemite (Part 2 of 2)

Part of the fun of being in a national park is the people you meet. I think being surrounded by all that beauty and feeling small in the enormity of creation brings out the best in people.

During our 3.5 days in Yosemite, we met an adorable family from Germany. Actually, I met so many Germans that I wondered who was left over there. This particular family captured my heart as they consisted of parents approaching my age and four sons who appeared to be in their twenties.

The young men were having a blast climbing on everything. They had beautiful walking sticks which were scavenged from the forest floor. I noticed one of the guys with his slung over his shoulder. When I questioned his unusual way of using a walking stick on this mostly uphill trail, he began using it in normal fashion and said that it was much more helpful that way. This began a conversation that continued on and off as we hiked the 1.9 miles of Washburn Trail toward Mariposa Grove.

Washburn Trail is purported to be a moderate hike. It is mostly uphill and this Florida girl knew she was no longer at sea level. The elevation was 7500 feet, which made it more necessary than usual to take a break to breathe. The German family was also taking breaks (I’m sure for the sake of the parents). This enabled our ongoing conversation.

As we were admiring their walking sticks, one fellow offered proudly that his brother was the finder of walking sticks. After hesitating for effect, he added, and wasps. His outstretched hand revealed the swelling resultant from encountering the wasps. Kim offered first aid, which was declined. She said she was sure she would be in tears with that kind of swelling.

The young man’s response was simple, “We don’t cry in Germany.” And then they all climbed up a big bolder and posed for pictures for their mama. How I missed my own sons as I watched this sweet group.

We also met the Simon Says guy. Steve Max is a professional Simon Says caller who has frequented pre-game shows of teams including the Orlando Magic. He was camera shy, but I googled him and discovered he is as real as bigfoot Half Dome.

We never saw any bears on this trip, but there were signs everywhere to warn of their presence. I spoke to another group of German women who asked if I had seen any bears and I admitted I had not. At least not since I was home in Florida where they do frequent my backyard. This blew their minds as they confessed to knowledge of alligators in Florida but not bears. I shared my backyard video and from the looks on their faces I am sure that they will never come to Florida for fear of our wildlife. I assured them that Interstate 4 is far more dangerous than any animal they might encounter.

My backyard visitor here in the Orlando suburbs.

In Mariposa Grove we met a three-generation Amish family who were camping just outside the park in BLM (Bureau of Land Management) territory. I was unaware of this cost-free option, but when they informed of us the rigors of BLM camping, I could see why I never came across it on a google search. There are no electrical hook-ups, no showers, no potties – just land. This group told us of bringing in their own water and latrine system. Every one of the children had their hair done nicely and they were dressed so cute. They were super polite and friendly. The only thing that gave away the lack of easy access to water was their dirty feet. Makes sense. Dirty feet mean lots of outdoor fun.

Another thing of note to be found in Yosemite is the plague. I don’t think it is of Biblical proportion, but there are signs warning people to stay away from wildlife – especially cute wildlife like chipmunks and ground squirrels, whose fleas can carry the disease. Just one more reason to give animals a wide berth.

One of the strangest things which I encountered in the park and something I think my grandchildren would struggle to identify, even with a smart phone, was in the Glacier Point area. This was a relic of the twentieth century. Conjecture would say it’s there because of poor internet availability. At least you could dial 911, though that may need to be made clearer for coming generations.

By this point of the trip, I was half crazed with trying to identify landmarks, birds, and trees with my iPhone. I so wanted it to get things right. My phone did not offer any explanation as to what this was. It did not even say it was Half Dome, which was a pleasant surprise.

Along the lines of “Take nothing but pictures and leave nothing but footprints,” I had to wonder who was trying to abscond with the heavy picnic tables scattered throughout the park. Is this kind of deterrent really necessary?

One thing we did take that I’ll share with you as long as you promise not to report us, is rocks. Full disclosure, there may have been a few pinecones, too. I think they have enough and more seem to be falling all the time, but Kim is obsessed with rocks and that rubbed off on me. As I was flying this trip, I did not have the luxury of collecting a lot of rocks, but while we were down at the edge of a stream, I found the prettiest little rock with pink and blue through it. I showed it to Kim and said there must be a be another one around here somewhere. Maybe it chipped off a bigger rock. The excitement was building for this one-of-a-kind rock. Then, as I rubbed it with my fingers to get dirt off, it became rubbery and I realized I had found a piece of chewed up gum.

I did not bring this sappy pinecone home.

How can I sum up my Yosemite experience? In one word – WOW! Kim and I kept coming back to this simple word as all adjectives had been used and overused to describe the beauty around us. I will share some of my favorite pictures with you and when you think, WOW, remember that a picture can only capture a small portion of how majestic and beautiful this park truly is.

Also, a big thank you to my sweet husband for making it possible for me to join my friend in his favorite park. If he ever has the opportunity to visit Yellowstone without me, I’ll have to remember how gracious he was.

If you’d like to read about Kim’s adventure, she is on Instagram #following_helen

Bonnie and Kim Go to Yosemite! (Part 1)

Preface: If you are a regular reader, you know that I travel a fair amount, usually with my husband. This is helpful in many ways, but none more than in his ability to read a map and know which way is north. I am directionally challenged and get overwhelmed when I’m taking in a lot of information. He keeps me headed in the right direction and has almost an eidetic memory when it comes to geography.

“Really?” you may ask. Well, that is my opinion but don’t tell him because it will go right to his head. Even if he doesn’t, he makes his claims of what-is-what with such certainty that I rarely question him. Then I can go merrily on my way to whatever comes up next.

On this trip, Bob was not my travel partner. I was privileged to travel with my friend, Kim, who is also somewhat navigationally impaired. But I digress. First let me tell you where I went, but savvy reader, I know you are quite the smart cookie, I’ll bet you already know. Following is the account of my trip:

Yosemite rocks! My jaw dropped at the fresh beauty of every turn, but after three and a half days of taking it all in, I remained confused as to the true identity of the granite wonders. You might take it for granted that I could identify the main rock formations and waterfalls since I have been to Yosemite twice, but it’s been twenty years, so I needed to refresh my knowledge. There are a lot of players, so I knew I’d need to smarten up a bit. No problem I have a smart phone.

Smart. That versatile little adjective. One can be a smart aleck, a smarty pants, book smart, street smart, regular smart, i.e. intelligent, or a smart dresser. While I may not be considered a smart dresser in my travel outfit, I made smart choices of walking sandals paired with compression hose for my cross-continental flight. Since San Jose, CA, was hitting 100 degrees when I landed, I could easily let my Florida feet out of their confines once I disembarked from the plane.

One can and likely does have a smart phone, which should make the owner appear even smarter with all the knowledge of the universe in the palm of your hand.

It doesn’t always work that way, though.

I was stoked to embark on a trip to Yosemite with my friend of many decades, Kim Sutter. Kim was having quite the adventure retracing the eight-week trip which her grandmother and her grandmother’s friend made from Michigan westward through many national parks in 1930. Unheard of at a time when most women didn’t know how to drive, these intrepid twenty-something year-olds drove a 1929 Model-A Ford Standard Coupe and were guided by a 1930 Shell Oil Company map. Kim and I traveled in an air-conditioned Toyota RAV4, which is quite the improvement.

Kim, who lives in Oklahoma and is a member of my zoom writers’ group, is writing a book about these parallel adventures and the impact her grandmother had on her life. Her journey was the best kind of research and extremely well-planned by my super-organized friend. As with any trip, there were a few things for which she could not have planned. Not unlike the deaths of celebrities, Kim’s changes of plans came close together and in a set of three.

Thankfully they weren’t as dire as someone dying, but they did involve a death of Kim’s original plan. Each of her two adult daughters and her mother had been set to do separate legs of the trip with Kim. All three of these women had circumstances prevent them from the original plan within about two weeks of Kim’s scheduled departure. Kim called me to give me the updates and I could hear the sadness in her voice. Yet, she was determined that God knew what the plan ultimately would be and that she would take the fifty-day trek on her own. She is brave.

As I recounted these new details to Bob and told him I wished I could go be with my friend, I could see that travel spark in his eyes. Within a couple of hours, we were on the phone with Kim proposing that I join her in Yosemite and encouraging her to take a few days to respond to our idea so she wouldn’t feel put on the spot. Long story short, I booked a flight to California.

It had been years since Kim and I were together in person. Our journey together was easy, and our conversations covered a wide span as we took in the beauty of Northern California.

Cedar Lodge in El Portal is one of the closer hotels to Yosemite National Park – a lovely 15-minute drive to the entrance. It affords exquisite views of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, some of which we could see through the gaps around the entry door to our room. If you are staying near the national parks, you should know that the hotels are pricey and may not have had updates since the Roosevelt administration, but that’s part of the historic charm of the areas.

We assumed that the flying insects around the light fixtures in our room, which must have found entry through our door-gap view of the mountains, were part of the outdoor experience. Kim admitted she did not pay extra for them. The insects were on the house.

Access to the internet should also not be assumed when traveling to these remote areas. I inquired of our innkeeper if there was a maximum number of devices per room to obtain use of Wi-Fi. He laughed out loud, which disturbed the lobby full of people who were trying to get close to the hotel’s Wi-Fi source. Kim and I found three usable outlets to charge our devices (one in the bathroom and another hidden behind my bed). Reminding yourself that you are roughing it and seeing some of the most beautiful sights which God created is helpful to keep things in perspective. Kim’s grandmother would have gotten a kick out of our lack of modern conveniences.

Although I can pull up a map on my phone that shows grids for ease of navigation, much of Yosemite was off the grid, so checking in with the park ranger is a smart thing to do. While their maps are not inclusive of every turn, they are vital to getting around because sometimes signage can be missed while you are gawking at the latest magnificent waterfall or rock formation.

Bridalveil Falls was the highlight of the waterfalls for us, mainly because the other falls we could have seen were dry due to a prolonged dry season. You can see from the picture how wide the falls typically can be.

One day while we were finalizing our plans with Ranger Mark, I asked him to help me identify the main rock formations. My smart phone was driving me crazy.

Half Dome

Three of the most famous rock formations of Yosemite are Half Dome, El Capitan, and the Three Brothers. Half Dome looms large over the park at 5000 feet over the valley floor. My iPhone is obsessed with Half Dome. I showed Ranger Mark my picture of what I thought was El Capitan, which I had captured outside of the Yosemite Valley Welcome Center. I clicked the little i icon and it revealed the landmark Half Dome. I clicked on a different picture of El Capitan, and it said Yosemite National Park. Ranger Mark assured me that my picture was not Half Dome, as my alleged smartphone claimed. It was El Capitan. Half Dome may be the big deal of the day, but it is not everything!

El Capitan

My conclusion is that my smartphone is not all-knowing and Ranger Mark agrees. He said I should report it but that sounded like work to me, and I was on vacation!

Instead, I bought myself a handy-dandy rock identifier to help me along my way. But now I have doubts, and I am still semi-obsessed with having my iPhone identify things correctly.

This morning before I sat down to write this post, I took a picture of a bird on my feeder. I used my iPhone, of course, and zoomed in and then clicked the stupid little icon to identify the bird. It said, “Look up landmark.” This was not helpful, but I did take the time to report it to the good people at Apple. They need to get their act together before the whole world is unable to tell the difference between El Capitan and Half Dome. At least the phone did not identify the bird on my feeder as Half Dome.

For now, I’ll leave you with a cliffhanger appropriate to the park. Will Bonnie ever figure out the names of the rocks? Part 2 is to come…

Superpowers, Vampires, Jesus

With temperatures hovering in the upper 90s for most of the month, this was the hottest May ever in Orlando. It felt like a sauna as the humidity has been hiding over the Atlantic or the Gulf. I’m sure it will get here soon – no worries. I do enjoy the anomaly of heat plus low humidity, but not so much this year as I have been forced to stay inside.

A spider bit me, and to my dismay I did not get superpowers.

Stupid spider!

What I did get was a staph infection. Today is Day 19 on antibiotics. This is one of the tetracycline varieties, which comes with a warning to stay out of the sun. So, instead of gaining superpowers, it’s more like I have become a vampire. A simple trip to the mailbox and I fear I could burst into flames.

Bob and I had a beach weekend with friends last weekend. I should say that Bob had a beach weekend while I had a stay in a condo by the beach. I did venture down for a short trip to dip my toes in the ocean. I used half a bottle of sunscreen SPF70 and wore a shirt over my swimsuit. I also had on a hat that covered my neck and stayed under an umbrella 98 percent of the time. It is entirely possible that I am whiter than before I went, but time with friends was worth it.

We did an afternoon boat trip along the Indian River looking for dolphins. We saw lots of them plus a bald eagle. Dolphins don’t pose for photos, but here’s proof one was out there:

There were two small islands crowded with pelicans and herons.

The boat was covered, so no spontaneous combustion from me. It was lovely to be outside! So, that’s what’s been going on with me. The situation has given me plenty of inside time to blog about our Italy/Switzerland trip – so that’s a positive. I’ll finish that up in the next week.

I’m praying that this will go away before Bob and I set out on our next adventure – a golf trip to Scotland with our son and his family, which starts in less than a week.

I will not be golfing, but that has nothing to do with staying out of the sun. It has everything to do with the fact that I am very unathletic. I’d say at least I won’t get hurt since I won’t be exerting myself, but if a spider can take me down, well, what else can I say? Thankfully, I’m in no pain, but prayers for complete healing for this weird thing would be appreciated.

And speaking of prayer, I was very convicted at church this morning of not asking for prayer. I was on an antibiotic, but that was not proving to have the healing power that I thought it might. I’m thankful that I know The God who heals, and he sent his Son Jesus to offer both healing and eternal life in Him. So, I asked for prayer at church, and I’m asking here again if you would please pray for me. Thanks!

Cold in Como

Our first day in Como was cold (by Florida standards for sure) and add to that a 25mph wind; and we decided to forego boating on beautiful Lake Como. Too choppy, too chilly! The best option for us was taking the funicular up the side of the steep hill to Brunate, a lovely Italian village.

The funicular was completed in 1894. Since spending time in Europe, that didn’t even seem old anymore. On exiting the funicular, we were treated to lovely views. My breath was taken away by the view of the Alps, but the surroundings we were standing in were lovely as well. This was Brunate.

Hotel in Brunate

The beautiful, blue sky was compensation for the cold temperatures, though I did check the shop for a beanie style hat to keep my ears warm. It was to no avail as it was supposed to be spring. This was not the first time that I had inquired as to the normalcy of the winter-like temperatures. And this was not the first time that I was told there is a saying in Italy – “April does what it wants!” No worries, I would be warm again when I got back to Florida.

There was a man making bracelets set up in an out-of-the-way booth. He told me the bracelets were made of Murano glass, which he described as “important” to Italy, particularly Venice. He also was selling lace doilies. These he described as important as well, especially since his mother made them. It’s a treat to chat with local people and hear them talk about their country. I love the way the Italians use the word “important” to describe things dear to their heritage.

The funicular only goes so far up the hill, but we hired a taxi/jeep to take us to the top. We figured we’d ride up and walk down, but after our ride along the steep, narrow streets, we thought better of it, a decision our knees would thank us for!

Once we got out of the jeep, there were stairs waiting for us to go to the lighthouse at the very top of the hill (note, for Floridians this is like mountain climbing).

Up, up, up we went, and we were rewarded with the best views of the Alps. Whatever breath hadn’t been taken away before, was surely gone as we feasted our eyes on the Swiss Alps.

All this fresh air and walking really stirs up an appetite. We had choices. Perhaps the Osteria Bar and Pizzeria, which was attached to a church or was that vice versa.

That was almost novel enough to have us eat there, but we opted for a place with a better view. We were glad we did. Our first course was bruschetta three ways. We order bruschetta often, both at home and abroad. This was the best we ever had. Our favorite had caramelized onions atop. Magnifica! We followed that with soup in keeping with our pursuit of warmth. Yum!

Back at sea level (or lake level), before we joined our friends for dinner and wine, I found a pop-up soccer souvenir stand and bought a beanie. My ears were grateful. Now I looked like a fan of the Italian national team. That works for me.

On Sunday some of us ventured out to church. I wasn’t sure I wanted to, because a service in a language I could not understand didn’t sound worthy of rising early. Let me tell you, though, you never know what you may experience, and this was worth it. Danny, who is also the founding pastor of our church and like our other traveling companions, a friend for over 40 years, wanted to check out the churches. We split again, with some sleeping in and some of us going to the 10:00 service at the Como Duomo, at least we went for the beginning of it. Listening to the pipe organ is amazing in any language.

The previous day during a walk we had found an Evangelical church. The service there began at 10:30, so we did some church hopping. This church was modest in stature. The people were friendly and several spoke English. We were greeted warmly and every person we met was excited to introduce us to the pastor. She is originally from Germany, but she speaks English well. So well, in fact, that she preached the service in Italian and English. We weren’t sure if that was for our benefit or not, but it was very moving that she would go to the trouble.

They handed out song booklets like what we had in the church we were going to back in the 1980s and 90s. It was a joy to see some of the old songs printed in English and Italian. The church was close to Presbyterian in doctrine, and their service that day was abbreviated as they had a meeting going on after the service, so we were there on the perfect day. Gloria a Dio!

It was an afternoon of meandering around Lake Como and imagining what it would be like if it weren’t so windy! We made the best of it and totally enjoyed being immersed in Como. Our hotel was situated in Piazza Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour (piazza translates to square). We happened upon a band finishing up a concert. They were playing Beat It by Michael Jackson.

There was lots of activity in the square as the band broke down the stage, including an alley of clowns that wandered onto the scene. (Yes, that’s what a group of clowns is called. That was new to me.)

Recorded music was being played in the background and we watched as folks boogied across the square while kids kicked a soccer ball around and Danny finally got McDonalds. After a while, you need a taste of home.

We were scheduled to leave Como and go to Switzerland the next morning via train. The itinerary was Como to Lugano to Lucerne. The hotel concierge informed us that we would likely have to deal with a scheduled train strike. They have them periodically, so to the Italians it’s part of life. But for us, this was alarming. We were told that we could possibly get out before it starts but we should have an alternative plan. Start and stop times of these is precise and they would last 24 hours or so. That was not information that comforted us.

We walked to a close-by train station (not the one we would depart from) and the attendant said that our train would not be affected. She even double-checked it with the main train station and told us we should be fine. Probably because of that pesky language barrier, we weren’t completely relieved. I’d say we were about 80 percent. Total relief wouldn’t happen until the next day when we hopefully boarded our train.

The following morning, we arrived at the Como S. Giovanni Railway Station, and it appeared our trip would not be cancelled. Nearly every other trip was canceled due to the strike. We were thankful as we set out on the next chapter.

Switzerland, here we come!

Arrivederci, Siena; Ciao, Como!

Our last day in Siena was a day of rest (and laundry). It was also a day to try out a different restaurant for lunch. We googled pizza places nearby, and I was thrilled to find one with a sense of humor. You don’t always see that on a website. This ristorante was so proud of their pizza crust that they claimed you would “go to Hell” if you didn’t eat it. Even though this challenged my theology, I was intrigued, but unfortunately the ristorante was not open – a problem I have mentioned here in the past. They keep different eating hours over there.

We did find a super cute place with a great view. I deviated from pasta and Italian meats and went straight for a steak. The word on the streets of Tuscany was you need to get a steak while you’re there. Also, when ordering, don’t attempt to tell them how you want it cooked. Apparently, they don’t like that. Leave that to the chef! It was delicious and the presentation was molto attraente (very appealing).

Other than lunchtime, we spent the entire day at our VRBO, Capanna di Elfo, which even though it translates to Elf Hut in English, we did not see any elves. We did see birds. Our friends and fellow travelers, Jim and Ann, are birders; and Jim pointed out purple martins as they flew overhead. That was new on my lifetime list, which is always exciting to me. However, the birding prize of the trip was a unique guy called a Eurasian Hoopoe. I had never heard of these, so I was thrilled.

One morning while getting ready for the day in my typical spot in our bathroom, which was by an open window which allowed for better lighting and overlooked the hill town, I heard a funny sound – like “who, who, who.” From Jim’s description, I knew this had to be him – the hoopoe, not Jim. Although Jim has a pretty fun sense of humor, so I could not be sure. When I finally went outside, I was able to spot the hoopoe. To add to that, Debi had been chasing him around the property and she took this amazing video. Thanks, Debi, for letting me post it.

We ended the day by gathering in the living room for a few moments of thankfulness to God for our trip and for our friendships. The next morning (Friday), we would say a sad goodbye to this chapter. Of the places we visited, I think Tuscany was my favorite of this trip; perhaps largely due to the accommodations we booked there. The Elf Hut was the beautiful launching pad to this exquisite region.

Bob and I woke up nervous the next morning. We had to return our rental cars in Florence and our trip two days prior was kind of a nightmare. We thought Friday traffic might be worse. Thankfully, this was not the case. There was still the getting-there part, but it was uneventful other than trying to gas up the cars, which proved complicated. We could easily gas up one, which took diesel so technically we fueled the car, but the car which Bob drove could not be filled in the same station, and there was no attendant – something we were getting accustomed to. After a short trip down the road, we filled our tank. We turned in our cars (hooray!) and walked the short distance to the train station. It was time to add trains to the planes and automobiles transportation modes of our trip.

But first, we eat. Another great Italian meal to fuel us for our trip to Como via Milan.

They’ve got the meats!

Just another cork project

Inside the Florence train station. Note the artwork above. It shows the clothing and hair movement as a result of a train passing.

I love traveling by train, but getting on the train can be stressful. We were thankful that we had traveled light. Wheeling a carry-on suitcase with a backpack strapped to the top is the way to go. We all made it safely on our first train. Addio, Firenze!

Connecting in Milan was exciting (translate stressful). We watched the boards for which platform we would board our train. It told us the train was on time, but the particular platform remained a mystery until the very last minute. We had, of course, used the restrooms while waiting, but we hadn’t thought to make our way to the center of the large Milan train station to ease our boarding process. Thus, we were very far from our indicated platform when they finally told us the one to which we needed to proceed. Right away. It was time to board.

The Milan train station was huge.

Canine traveler all gussied up. She was trembling with excitement.

Keeping eight of us together is challenging in these circumstances. As usual, Bob was in the front of our pack of travelers. I was close behind and heard him inquire as to which cars we should board to use our purchased first-class tickets. These cars were marked with a prominent #1, she told him. The first car was already packed, she informed us. We should go several cars down and get on any with the #1 on it.

At this point it was every man for himself. Six of us climbed on board about four cars back, but where were Danny and Melodye? We settled into our nice leather seats and looked around. The doors were closing. We texted and discovered our friends were slowed by rushing travelers who almost knocked them to the ground. In the kerfuffle, they lost sight of us but saw the #1 on the first car and wedged themselves in just in time. Sadly, they could not pull a Red Sea maneuver and join us in comfort. They rode the entire leg of the trip standing up like cows in a cattle car. At least we knew we would end up in Como together. It was a very mooving experience for them.

Como was touted as a favorite by everyone we knew who had visited there. We were looking forward to a boat ride on the beautiful lake and possibly visiting the much-ballyhooed Bellagio, the lovely village on the other side of the lake from where we stayed that overlooks Lake Como and was the inspiration for the Bellagio Hotel in Vegas. The cold front that came through two days earlier had us rethink our plans.

We got off the train in Como to find it breezy and chilly. We knew we had an 11-minute walk ahead of us to our hotel, but the conversion of minutes from English to Italian must have not been counted correctly as it took us approximately forever to schlep our bags along the cobblestone streets, including down a long set of stairs, mostly going in the correct direction, and finally arriving at our hotel, the Barchetta Excelsior. It was time to check in, recover a little, and find food.

We ate at a close-by pizza place, right next to McDonalds. We enjoyed a slice, some wine, and finished with limoncello.

We also found room for gelato, which we ate in the shadow of the Como Cathedral, or as is more fun to say, the Como Duomo. Officially it is (in Italian) Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, or Duomo di Como).

Thus ended our Friday. What would Saturday bring?

A Florentine Faux Pas – Fun in Florence

The night before we were to tour Florence, the six of our friends whom we were traveling with let us know that they were enjoying the VRBO so much that they decided to rest there the next day instead of taking our scheduled tours. Everyone was understandably tired, but Bob and I decided we weren’t that tired. This was an interesting part of our trip, as it revealed the level of friendship that we have with these folks. We can tell each other what we want or don’t want to do, and there are no offenses taken. It’s truly wonderful to have that kind of friendship.

The thought that I had to battle was that we possibly broke our friends. Had we been pushing too much? We all recognized going into this trip that Bob and I tend towards more aggressive touring – a FOMO (fear of missing out) mentality. Our friends enjoy a simpler, slower pace that allows more rest and taking in the ambience of the area. Both ways are fine, of course. It’s all what you want out of a trip or what you need any given day. Still, I was sad that they weren’t going to get to see Michaelangelo’s David and the city of Florence. They were fine with it, so we were, too. The next morning, off we went just the two of us.

Before I continue, here’s a teaser. Bob broke two laws on our trip to Florence – hence the Florentine faux pas. In my eyes both counts were totally understandable and fell into the category of doing what you must while observing the intent rather than the letter of the law. I’m thankful he didn’t have to go to Italian jail.

It should have been an hour’s drive, but the traffic was horrendous, so it was double that. As we inched into the city, we were thankful for our friends’ sake that they took a restful day at the VRBO. It was exhausting.

We had mapped our way to a parking garage, and even at the swift pace of about 2 mph, we missed the turn as it was blocked by a panel truck. It took 20 minutes to go back around the block. The light into the garage was green, but we could not activate the gate. There was no one there, so I walked down the ramp and I saw one open space. I reported back to Bob. Having no other way in or out, Bob was forced to back up the steep incline from the garage with me watching from the sidewalk above/behind him to avoid cyclists and pedestrians. There are people and bicycles everywhere in the city.

When I reached my vantage point up the hill, I looked down and noticed that Bob was no longer in the car. This would have been more troubling if I did not know my husband like I do. There was no one around here, and our trip had been twice as long as we reckoned, so I had a feeling that Bob was on the uncomfortable side after having drunk a Coke Zero on the way. When I saw him get back in the car, we were both relieved. We’ll call this Faux Pas Number 1.

We knew that he could not back up and get back on the road from whence we came. That left no choice but to back up and drive down the sidewalk. (Faux Pas Number 2). Have I mentioned that he was driving a standard transmission? He was a pro backing up that incline and turning and driving down the sidewalk like a sluggish Mario Andretti. I walked ahead of him to clear the way of any obstacles. “Aye yai yai.” (Excuse my Spanish!)

Upon our dismount from the sidewalk, an angel in an orange vest appeared. He flagged us down and showed us where to park. It was valet parking, so we handed over the rental car keys not really caring if we ever saw the car again. All of this made us a half an hour late for our appointment at the Galleria del’Accademia. We approached someone in the crowd who looked official, and he helped us to join the next tour. We were grateful.

Our tour guide, Glenda, was lovely. The highlight of the tour was everything by Michelangelo. There is something about walking down the corridor flanked with his unfinished sculptures, which he carved in the 1500s. Michelangelo described these as statues that were within blocks of marble. He claimed he would chip away at the marble to see what emerged. That is a splendid example of how a creative person thinks.

As fascinating and beautiful as all of that was, looking down to the end of the corridor and seeing the Statue of David meant beholding another level of Michelangelo’s artistic genius – a true masterpiece. David is surely the piece de resistance of the Galleria.

Besides seeing David, the main impetus for us to go back to Florence was going inside the duomo – Duomo di Firenze. Our last visit was on a Sunday, and you cannot go inside unless you are there for a service. As you can see by the pictures, the outside is stunning.

The dome is the largest brick dome ever made.

I was surprised at the simplicity of the interior of this Duomo. It is clearly magnificent on the outside, so I figured it would be quite ornate inside. I was wrong. While this duomo could never be described as humble, it was in comparison to the one in Siena.

I was fascinated by these lampstands. People would occasionally approach them and light a candle. It gave a warm glow, as you can see.

While we lingered inside waiting for the rain to stop, I saw a girl of around 12 years old, who was staring at her irritated eye in the bathroom mirror. I offered eyedrops, but she only spoke French. I was hesitant to try to convince her since she was not with her parents.

As Bob and I were going up the stairs to the main floor, she was in front of us. I warned Bob not to touch the hand railing as I was sure she had pink eye. Her parents greeted her at the top of the stairs, and she was quite distressed. I walked over to them and offered eyedrops. Her father was grateful and wanted me to put them in. I told them I wouldn’t touch her just have her open her eye wide and look up. I put a few drops in and handed her a tissue. I only share this because years ago while traveling with these same friends I had a terrible case of pink eye, so I am gun-shy when it comes to being around it. I thought it was cool of God to let me offer relief to someone who was suffering like I had.

The rain faded to a drizzle but with the temperatures dropping, we were not excited about getting wet. We headed for the nearest restaurant and were seated immediately. (Thankful, again.)

Note the restaurant began in 1882!

Our lovely meal began with a starter of bruschetta accompanied by a glass of Chianti, which was recommended by our guide Glenda as the go-to wine of the region. I had risotto with asparagus and salami – easily the best risotto I’ve ever tasted.

The sun came out as we ambled down the street, totally happy with a full tummy and the warmth of the wine as we faced a chill in the air. Bob and I absorbed as much of Florence as we could before going back to our friends in Siena. We were quite tired and happy to find our car right where we left it. That’s a good day.

All the rain earlier in the day brought a cold front which stayed for the remainder of our trip. We enjoyed another Siena sunset before settling in for the evening.

Wine Tasting in Montepulciano

On our second full day in Tuscany, we headed to Montepulciano, which is about an hour’s drive from our Siena VRBO. But first let me share one of the most shocking moments from our trip. Danny, a member of our little gang of travelers, rose early one morning, before anyone else was out of bed, and captured this photo of a gorgeous sunrise.

The magnitude of this can only be appreciated if you, like Bob and I, had lived next door to Danny and his wife Melodye for 32 years and know that they are night people. I’d expect a good sunset picture, but this! What a delightful surprise and great documentation of the part of the day that I rarely experience. But now to our rental cars and another hill town.

Montepulciano is a magnificent medieval and Renaissance hill town. It is a delight for the eyes and the palate, especially if that palate is fond of wine. As is constant in Tuscany, there is beauty everywhere – from architecture to landscapes to the richness of history. They know how to do “old” over there.

We met Sarah, our engaging, informative tour guide as we entered Cantina Ercolani. Cantina translates cellar and Ercolani is the family name. Citta Sotterranea means underground city, and that’s where the wine cellar is. We followed Sarah through the passageways, and it felt like we went back in time.

Bob and I had been to this area before, and I was excited to show our friends Montepulciano. On our first trip here, nine years ago, we enjoyed tasting the wines of the region while walking through this town. I was especially eager to show my friend Debi, who writes the blog the Romantic Vineyard. She has a huge penchant for wine and I knew she’d love the experience. You can check out her blog including some of her takes on our trip here.

You could caption this picture anywhere between

Drunk on wine knowledge to Is it time to taste the wine yet?

I looked at those huge barrels and never once imagined anyone having to clean them out. Kind of like the top of the refrigerator or the backseat of a mom’s minivan, I assumed they never got their due attention. But, in order to have great wine, periodically those barrels have to have the sediment removed and that is a job for a big wine lover of small stature. Notice the bottom of the barrel where the faucet is. The wood looks like a cartoon mousehole with a locking mechanism affixed to it. That gets removed and someone crawls through the hole to extricate sediment from the barrel. Sarah is holding up a video on her cell phone that shows a man climbing through that hole. That is commitment to good wine!

These barrels are made from French oak. Smaller barrels intensify the wood flavor in wine. The glass on top of the barrels is an aerator. It is said to have been invented by Leonardo di Vince to keep air from ruining the wine. That begs the question – why do we let wine breathe after opening a bottle? After a few sips of wine, I decided it doesn’t matter.

These are white wine barrels and I felt like I needed to give white wine its due, especially since I am a red person. These are chestnut barrels from Tuscany. The white wine will age in them for 5 – 10 years.

We mustn’t forget about olive oil.

All that lecture-based education lent itself to some hands-on learning. That’s right – it was time to taste the wine. We were offered ten varieties of wine to sample, each paired with various antipasto to enhance the wine’s flavor. By the time we hit the seventh taste, though I hate to admit it, I was getting tipsy. Don’t tell my kids. They would be so embarrassed of me. I guess I had been so concerned about my stamina to do all the walking that I had neglected building my wine-drinking stamina.

This was about the point that I knew I needed more food and less wine. The food pairings were delicious, and the small wooden plates with a slot for the wine glass were adorable.

The fresh air did us good as we again walked up, up, up while taking in the views and doing a little shopping along the way. We were happy to find a place to enjoy a late afternoon snack as well, and the view was amazing as always.

Little did we know that this was our last warm day of the trip. Like Mary Poppins, change was in the wind.

One last parting shot. It’s been great, Montepulciano!

It’s Always a Good Time for Tuscany

Should one return to Tuscany on a regular basis and if so, how regular should that basis be? This is a question that I also ask myself about Hawaii. Both places are breathtakingly beautiful and are favorites of mine. To be in either place is to experience a great sense of peace and relaxation; but ironically, I get pretty doggone tired when visiting both places. Then again, Bob and I are fairly aggressive travelers, so I should clarify – tired and happy and strangely energized.

To answer the question from the beginning of this post – Yes, one should go to Tuscany on a regular basis or an irregular basis, or just once, if at all possible! That is if you’d like to experience old Italy, great food and wine, classic architecture, great food and wine, timeless art, great food and wine, beautiful rolling hills, great food and wine, spectacular sunrises and sunsets, and great food and wine.

A little backstory for our most recent trip – we have traveled extensively with three other couples, all of whom we’ve enjoyed friendship with for over forty years. It has been over a decade since we have had the privilege of traveling together. When the last of our group retired at the end of 2023 and told us they were considering going to Italy, the door opened for another group trip. Actually, I’m not sure if the door opened or if we kicked it in, but either way, last month the eight of us set off for Italy and Switzerland on an adventure.

Traveling at our current “certain” age is vastly different than it was over a decade ago, even though we would have considered ourselves a “certain” age way back then. Silly us! We are now more “certain” than ever and a bit slower, too, but we managed our trip with friendships and body parts intact. That’s a win.

We chose not to check baggage as we were literally doing a planes, trains, and automobiles type of trip with four different destinations along the way. You may notice striking similarities in our luggage and backpacks as we texted each other with every detail of our trip planning. (Thanks, Amazon.) I’m not sure if it’s a thing, but it may be time to get the tires rotated on our luggage. We gave them a workout on those cobblestone streets.

Six of us began in Orlando on a Saturday morning. We connected with the other two in Charlotte, and from there we headed to Florence via Madrid. I don’t like math, but I’m guessing that it took us about a zillion hours to arrive at our VRBO in Siena. (a zillion = approximately 23, according to my engineer and numbers guy, Bob)

Siena – che bello! These sights eased our travel-weary souls!

These are the views from our VRBO in Siena. (Here is a link in case you’d like to book here yourself. I highly recommend it. https://www.vrbo.com/10788011ha)

There were a few things that were musts for us American certain-agers. First and foremost was our own bedroom with attached bathroom. The bed size must be queen or larger. They don’t designate bed sizes the same way as we do in the states, but we were able to figure it out. This VRBO in Siena checked all the boxes. It even had a washer and dryer, though one should note that a clothes dryer in Europe will likely be a rack on which to hang clothes, which was the case for us. Still, it was bene da noi (fine by us).

We started our visit with a catered dinner at our new Siena home. This was an extravagance suggested by the owner, and it paid off in spades as we were all tired and hungry. This pair of lovely Italian ladies invaded the kitchen and put out a spread worthy of a king. This included an appetizer which included home-made crackers. I didn’t know that was even a thing. Perhaps I’m easily impressed, but they were deliziosa! Home-made bread and charcuterie with fresh vegies and honey were just the beginning. Our main course was ravioli. It was the first time I had eaten it aside from Chef Boyardee. Chef Boyardee has been canned! For dessert – tiramisu. I didn’t even think I liked that, but I do!

The nighttime held a welcome of its own. The blue, blue sky framed our lovely home with warm lights emitting a special glow. The sound of a nightingale, which was a new one for me, was like a lullaby! And this lovely place to lay our weary heads and rest for the journey ahead – so special.

One of the challenges for us was adjusting to the eating times in Italy. We had coffee and breakfast in our Siena home, but for the rest of the meals, we had to wing it. Most restaurants closed around 2:30 and didn’t open again until 7:00. It seemed like we all got hungry sometime close to 2:00 and had to scramble to find someplace to eat or else wait until 7:00.

As we walked into Siena, we quickly came across an osteria, which translates – a place of serving wine and simple food. We asked if the eight of us could be seated but it was not possible. How about two tables of four? Again, no. As we turned to leave, the hostess came to us and asked if we could split into two tables and be finished eating in an hour and a half as she had reservations for that time. I told her, “No problem. We’re Americans. We excel at eating fast.”

So cozy!

The wine cellar

As we entered La Taverna di San Giuseppe, we didn’t feel like there was anything “simple” about the place. It was as inviting as a warm hug and a perfect reflection of everything Tuscan. There was a wine cellar downstairs which could be seen from our dining table. It was the perfect photo op. Bob and I ordered lasagna, something I don’t order at home. It was delicious and unlike anything I have tasted our side of the Atlantic. There was no red sauce, and the ricotta cheese was whipped as smooth as Barry White.

The outside of the restaurant was covered in Michelin plaques and the restaurant is featured in their guide, but I couldn’t figure out if it actually achieved star status, so I simply have awarded it 2 stars. After consulting with the other seven of our group and hearing rave reviews, it was the least I could do.

I Miss My Friend

I had three best friends when I was a teenager. Leslie was one of them and the one with whom I kept the best contact. It helped that she moved down to Florida several years ago, which gave us the opportunity to get together.

Our perpetual plan was to meet at The Back Porch Restaurant in Lake Alfred and enjoy lunch and shopping. It was the perfect place to meet—nearly halfway between our homes. We loved it. It’s an idyllic spot for ladies to pull away from the cares of life and enjoy each other’s company. Sadly, we were not very good at keeping those appointments. Things happened, for instance, travel, work, kids, grandkids, and COVID. I am thankful for each time we had there.

We missed celebrating both of our birthdays on The Back Porch last year. I was traveling on mine. She was not feeling well on hers. The loose plan was to meet in December, but of course the holiday activities got in our way. We always thought we’d have the next time.

Bob and I were on our way to our son, Joe’s, for Christmas when I got the call from Tad. Leslie suffered a massive stroke, and she was gone. The words hung in the air as I tried to grapple with what I had just heard through Tad’s trembling voice. No more trips to Lake Alfred. No more crazy phone calls. No more reminiscing about our youth. No more long text streams. Just sadness mixed with the reality that I couldn’t quite grasp—Leslie was in Heaven. I knew that for sure. We both had accepted Jesus as our savior when we were 15. It was another one of our bonds.

Because I don’t clean out my texts often, I sat down and read all our conversations from October 2019 through November 2022. They are filled with laughter and sadness, joy and pain, prayer requests, hurricane check-ups, sarcasm and love. I will miss her crazy laughter and wonderful sense of humor, but the love of a good friend—I’ll miss that most.

The last time I talked with her was in September right before Bob and I headed to Hawaii. Hurricane Ian was coming to Florida, and we wanted to make sure she knew she could evacuate to our Orlando home even though we’d be away. She assured me she’d keep it in mind and teased me for evacuating all the way to Hawaii like some kind of crazy over-reacting paranoid Floridian. I love her.

As teenagers, we spent a lot of time at each other’s houses. They were a mile apart, but we walked it. Kids walked everywhere back then. Leslie had a pool in her backyard – something that was unheard of in suburban Maryland at the time. Therefore, we spent more summer days at her house. One day when we were walking back to her house from mine, she spotted her neighbor coming towards us. My fourteen-year-old self had a huge crush on him at the time, so she wanted to warn me, especially since I had just polished off a couple of Hostess HoHos and my teeth held evidence of that yummy chocolate cake and cream filling.

It was a good thing that I was packing that day. I whipped out my squirt gun and promptly cleaned my teeth. Leslie gave me the all-clear teeth sign, and we both laughed so hard that we couldn’t do more than wave hello when we passed by him. That is a great example of the passage from childhood to adulthood. Having a crush on a boy and carrying a squirt gun while eating junk food. No wonder our parents didn’t know what to do with us.

It was a hot summer day and we joined a few others wading through the Reflecting Pool on the mall grounds in D.C. We were so scared we’d get in trouble.

Once Leslie accompanied our family from Maryland to Florida to visit my grandparents. By that time, my two older siblings weren’t making the trip, so she joined my sister and me in the backseat of our Oldsmobile Delta 88, complete with plastic on the seats.

My grandparents lived in a “magical” world called MoHo Park, which was right off the fairly new Interstate 4, several miles from the up-and-coming, Disney World, and smack next to a prison farm, which later became the 33rd street jail in Orlando. It was a mobile home park for senior citizens. The entire park loved it when families would visit. They freely shared their pool and provided us with bikes to ride. My grandparents were two of the most loving people in the world, so they fit right in there.

During the daytime the three of us girls needed more to do than ride bikes and swim in the pool, so we toured the model homes. I should add that our tours were self-guided. It was great fun and felt dangerous. It wasn’t truly breaking and entering, as all we did was enter. I guess in those days you could leave doors open more freely, even if you did live next to a prison farm.

One fine summer day as we were going through a model home, we heard the front door open and voices wafted back to where we were. Uh oh. Leslie was not one to handle stress well and this time proved no different. Linda and I, I am sure, were not exactly models of discreet silence, but we held it together as we pushed Leslie into a closet. Of course, we joined her. Someone had to hold their hand over her mouth.

To this day I don’t remember if we were discovered or not, but I do remember Leslie laughing and ultimately crying so uncontrollably that I now wonder if those who entered the model home were hearing impaired. It could be! We were in a senior citizen community.

Years later, about a year after Bob and I married and moved to Florida, Leslie called me to tell me she was engaged. Would I be her matron of honor? Of course I wanted to, but there was the problem of money. We were newlyweds with Bob finishing college and me working for Social Security. There was no way I could afford the trip. Her dad sent me a plane ticket. He was a sweetheart, even though he always said he’d give Bob and me a year since I was clearly marrying my best friend and very young at that. Now you know why Bob and I have stayed married for going on 48 years. It was to spite Mr. Smith! I think it eventually made him happy to know we were going to make it!

Leslie and her kids, Kevin and Katie, visited us in Florida when she came down to a roller-skating competition. She competed and was quite good. She worked at roller rinks while raising her kids. We picked up where we left off, but this time we were not the kids. Yet every time we’d meet up, the kid in us leaked out the way it does when you’ve known each other forever.

Last week, Bob and I went to Venice Beach, Florida, for Leslie’s celebration of life. She lived in Florida for a few years prior to moving there, but I had not yet visited since the move. The last time I saw Leslie was the spring of 2020 when she and Tad met my mom and me for lunch. COVID and other things had interfered with our seeing each other, but I’m thankful for that brief time together.

Leslie didn’t know that Bob and I planned to come see her and see her new life and have Bob meet Tad. We knew it would be after the holidays, but sadly we were too late. Our trip to see her was to say a final goodbye to her and give our love, comfort, and support to Leslie’s son and Tad. To grieve with those who grieve and to share memories of Leslie with each other.

I’m sad and I am grieving, but I grieve as one with hope. Leslie knew Jesus as her savior. I have no doubt about it. We will see each other again.

Leslie with her sushi stealing cutie-pie grandson. She loved her grands. She sent me this picture two years ago.

I Will Trust Him

I spent a couple hours standing in the Gulf of Mexico today. It was cathartic. I turn my back on the shore and just take in the beauty, all the while hoping to see a dolphin. Sometimes I do but not today.

Today I looked upon the emerald green waters through a different lens. It was the lens of sorrow. I’m not sure why God always seems more present to me when I’m at the beach, but he does. Today we spent a lot of time together. A lot of people I love are suffering and I kept bringing their names to my Heavenly Father. I was acutely aware of how little we control and how much we need him.

In the midst of all that, I glance back at my husband sitting in his beach chair reading. We’re away celebrating our anniversary. He comes out with me for a while. I tell him about the family from Iowa that I just met and how they’ve never seen a live sand dollar, only broken pieces on the shore. He swims out to the sandbar where we often find a bed of them. Once he’s there, I join him.

The sandbar is huge. It’s really not that far to swim to it. The water is over my head for a while, but the gulf is gentler than the Atlantic, so I can do it. I just don’t do it alone. I’m more cautious than I used to be. And I keep thinking about our friends. It’s a weird day.

We search and search but don’t find a single sand dollar. Maybe tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow I’ll see dolphins, too. Maybe tomorrow I’ll get a good report about some of the friends we’re praying for.

For now, though, I’m taking in the life around me. A family of three generations is playing monkey in the middle. They’re having a blast. Their laughter warms my heart. Two teenagers from Chicago ask me about the sandbar and I tell them about our search for sand dollars. They’ve never heard of them. Have you ever tried to describe a sand dollar to someone? It’s tough to do, but even from our poor effort, they’re fascinated by the fact that there is so much life right by them in the water.

I’m fascinated too. That’s one of the strange things about suffering or standing with someone who is suffering. There is so much life that keeps on going. It’s like you’re in two worlds at the same time. One normal like the tides coming in and going out. And one beyond description where nothing is right and the water is stagnant and you’re wondering if a wave is going to knock you down.

Then I look out into the sea once again. It’s vast and glorious. The clouds are magnificent. A cormorant flies by and perches on a pole. Laughter rises above the gentle sound of the waves. I paraphrase Psalm 121:1,2:

I lift my eyes to the sea (hills). From where does my help come? My help comes from the Lord, who made heaven and earth.

I am thankful that I know Jesus. I know the maker of heaven and earth. That’s how I can get through the sadness and still have joy. I hope you know him, too. If not, call on him. He is always there.